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 Here we offer general instructions and
precautions for roughing in, as well as installation procedures
for tying into your present drain waste vent and supply
systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your bathroom sink, your rough
plumbing should resemble that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
 Violating or ignoring
local code restrictions,
- Using pipes that are too small,
- Attaching copper to galvanized
without using a brass or dielectric fitting between
the two,
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe
compound at threaded joints,
- Not leveling your fixtures when
installing them,
- Not installing an air gap filling
for fixtures,
- Cutting supply stub outs too
short to install the shutoff valves onto after the
finished wall is in place, or
- Not properly aligning tubing
into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto
the compression ring at an angle when the tubing
is at an angle will cause a leak.)
- When turning the water back on
in your home, always run the outside hose valve
or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from
the lines. This debris can cause problems in your
sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
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Installing your Bathroom
Sink
Pipes required for roughing in the bathroom
sink include hot and cold supply stubouts, shutoff valves, transition
fittings, and possibly flexible tubing for above the shutoff valves.
Air chambers may also be required*.
If you are installing the bathroom sink in a
back to back arrangement, little pipe is required. Since a sink
rates low in fixture units, it should have little effect on the
present drain's efficiency. Refer to the fixture unit chart in
the Uniform Plumbing Code Book*. This fixture can often be wet
vented if it is within the critical distance. If not, it must
be back vented in some areas.
Clearance from the side of a bathroom sink to
a toilet tank or finished wall should be at least 4 inches while
distance to a tub may be as little as two inches. There must also
be a minimum of 21 inches from the front edge to a wall or fixture.
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When cutting the capped supply lines to
install your shut off valves, cut the 1/2" copper supply
line at least 1 1/2 inches from the finished wall to allow
for an escutcheon and shut off valve compression nut and
ring.
1. Cut carefully and slowly so as not to
compress the pipe with the cutter wheel or flatten the pipe.
The compression ring and nut will only tighten on a round
pipe. |
2. Assemble the faucet according to the directions
on the package.
3. Slip on the escutcheon, the coupling
nut, the compression ring and the valve. Hold the valve
outlet up and slide it over the compression ring.
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| 4. Tighten down the coupling
nut onto the valve using two crescent wrenches. It will usually
squeak when it is properly seated.
5. Connect the trap to the drain body
and the drain pipe.
6. When water pressure is restored, run
water into the basin and check for any leaks.
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